Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts

This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort. These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704

Data and Resources

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identifier USGS:5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
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modified 20211013
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publisher U.S. Geological Survey
publisher_hierarchy Department of the Interior > U.S. Geological Survey
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Groups
  • AmeriGEOSS
  • National Provider
  • North America
Tags
  • amerigeo
  • amerigeoss
  • ckan
  • cmhrp
  • coastal-and-marine-hazards-and-resources-program
  • coastal-processes
  • coral-reefs
  • flooding
  • geo
  • geoscientificinformation
  • geoss
  • hazards
  • kwajalein-atoll
  • national
  • north-america
  • numerical-modeling
  • oceans
  • pacific-coastal-and-marine-science-center
  • pcmsc
  • reef
  • republic-of-the-marshall-islands
  • roi-namur
  • u-s-geological-survey
  • united-states
  • usgs
  • usgs-5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
  • water-column-features
  • water-level
  • waves
isopen False
license_id notspecified
license_title License not specified
maintainer PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
maintainer_email pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
metadata_created 2025-11-21T19:17:23.615276
metadata_modified 2025-11-21T19:17:23.615280
notes This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort. These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
num_resources 2
num_tags 29
title Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts